Our Kibbutz Ein Dor adventure ended on December 19th when we moved out and transported our lives (which was basically just two suitcases) to Karmi'el. Leaving the kibbutz stirred up a lot of mixed feelings. On one hand, the food was terrible, the people weren't always friendly, and there was a perpetual aroma of cow excrement. And though we wanted to leave our analysis of the kibbutz at that superficial level, we also saw the tight relationships people formed with one another and the great sense of mutual responsibility that still prevails within kibbutzim.
We waved goodbye to Ein Dor and made our way to the hilly Karmi'el (but more to come on that later). Just a few days into our stay in our new home, we were released for chofesh (break), which I spent in Turkey with my mother and sister. We decided to travel for about eleven days, and stayed in Istanbul the whole time.
Istanbul is an amazing city. We spent our first few nights in the old city, seeing major sites such as the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace. I most enjoyed the Hagia Sophia, whose construction started in 532 CE and was used as a religious building until 1934. It was originally built as a Byzantine church and used as so for hundreds of years until 1453 when the Ottoman conquerers converted it into a mosque. Eventually, with the secularization of Turkey, the Hagia Sophia became a museum. Some of the Muslim motifs were uncovered and right below them lay (perfectly preserved by plaster which was covering them) the old Christian mosaics. The building is the perfect blend of Christianity and Islam and allowed me to understand the evolution of Istanbul from Byzantine to Ottoman and eventually to an independent republic.
Mom and Rachel in front of the Hagia Sophia
After exploring more of the old city, we headed across the Golden Horn to the new city, the bustling centre of life in Istanbul. Whereas the old city houses many of Istanbul's most classic sites, the new city is home to more of Istanbul's residents. With a good seat on Istiklal (the main thoroughfare), we could sit and observe people taking walks, getting home from work, or kids going to school. I enjoyed being on the modern side of town and seeing more students and young professional types.
The new city was much more interesting for meeting people. A lot of times we would be asked where we're from and where we live. I often experienced the tension of not wanting to say that I live in Israel right now, especially in light of the flotilla conflict (the ship involved in the incident arrived back in Istanbul during our stay). I felt that a lot of people would not have been as friendly to me knowing where I am spending this year. It's not like I didn't know that people have problems with Israel, but coming from the United States (or at least Philadelphia) serious distate for Israel is taken more wholistically and less blindly critical. I think a lot of people in Turkey (though this is just my opinion) don't like Israel no matter what, and there would be little I could say to change that, whereas at home there is usually more room for conversation.
That being said, I found the people incredibly interesting, helpful, and friendly. By staying in the same neighborhood for a week, we were able to shop at the same places and dine at some of the same restaurants. It meant that the man in the corner shop recognized us after we had been in a few times, and we were greeted warmly as if we were friends (though in reality we could barely communicate).
By the end of our stay, which I enjoyed immensely, I was excited to return to Israel, where I have a home, friends, and I understand the language. Overall I had a fantastic trip to Turkey and a welcoming return to Israel.
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